Sunday, March 6, 2016

HT Guide to AV Receivers

image: http://cdn.soundandvision.com/images/styles/600_wide/public/811avrbg.promo_.jpg?itok=aDX3L_RI


The A/V receiver is your home theater’s central nervous system. All cables and connections to and from your other components are likely to run through your AVR. It will manage and switch the A/V signals from all of your sources, and it will power at least five of your loudspeakers. Making the right choice in an AVR can feel like a science exam, but once you make the perfect match, the rewards are huge. The right AVR will be a pleasure to use and will make your speakers and other components perform their best. Helping you make the best choice is where Home Theater’s AVR Buyer’s Guide comes in.What exactly is an A/V receiver? An A/V receiver performs the functions of a multichannel power amplifier and surround processor in one box. For the most demanding speakers and rooms, it may be better to buy these things as separate products. But for most home theater systems, an A/V receiver is the ideal powerhouse.
What’s new in AVRs this year? The biggest event is the advent of a new generation of HDMI technology. The latest version to be widely used is HDMI 1.4. Its new features include the HDMI Ethernet Channel, which lets connected devices share data and Internet connections; the Audio Return Channel, which lets the display pass audio signals back to the A/V receiver; and the new Micro HDMI Connector. Other HDMI 1.4 features—which are formally part of the spec but not yet built into products due to the availability of chipsets—include 4k-by-2k resolution. But the splashiest feature of HDMI 1.4 is its 3D support. There’s also a nascent HDMI 1.4a, which offers additional compatibility for 3D broadcast formats that were adopted very recently.
Things that were new over the last few years—like HDMI 1.3 connectivity, lossless surround decoding, and iPod docking options—are now deployed across most brands and models. And networking features, which were relatively rare last year, are burgeoning in tandem with similar efforts by flat-panel HDTV makers.
Energy-Efficient 
Amplifier Topologies 
A conventional AVR uses Class AB amplification, which can perform well but wastes some energy in the form of heat. More efficient alternatives are now arriving. One of the most promising is Class D. This turns the analog input signal into a train of pulses and uses that to switch the output devices on and off, rather than let them run all the time. Class G and Class H amps aren’t new, but they’re gaining in popularity. These use various schemes, like rail switching and rail tracking, that let them operate their output devices with no more voltage than necessary at any given time. Manufacturers are finding ways to make these power-saving designs sound better, and we expect them to eventually take over most of the market. If you want to shave your power bill—or save the planet—these new topologies are worth considering.
Beyond 5.1
Our position on surround sound is that 
it’s a 5.1-channel medium at heart: three channels in front, two toward the rear of the side walls, and a dedicated low-frequency-effects channel. However, except for entry-level models, most AVRs have seven amp channels. That includes a basic array of 5.1 channels and another two channels for surround expansion modes. The latter include front height, front width, and back-surround channels. Although Yamaha has been doing front height (presence) channels for some time, you can now find AVRs that get high with either Dolby Pro Logic IIz or Audyssey DSX. However, for width channels, DSX is the only game in town. Ironically, only back channels are supported by software that’s encoded for the purpose, in the Dolby EX or DTS-ES surround codecs. DPLIIz and DSX are merely processing modes that derive height and/or width channels.

image: http://cdn.soundandvision.com/images/811avrbg.1.jpg

Do you need them? Height adds a new dimension to certain movies but doesn’t add much to music. Width adds little to movies and less to music. Back surrounds can be helpful if two side-surround speakers aren’t enough to cover a long, narrow room. However, height, width, and/or back surrounds may not justify the expense and hassle of installing more speakers in your room.
Low-Volume Listening and Leveling and Compression Modes
The founding fathers of modern motion-picture sound decreed that every theater be calibrated at a reference level of 85 decibels. But most people listen at lower levels in their home theaters. As the real-world volume drops below the reference level, human hearing naturally changes. As a result, dialogue becomes harder to catch, backgrounds disappear, and the soundfield collapses. In addition, it’s likely that the source components that crowd your AVR’s back panel supply different input volumes, which require constant (and annoying) manual adjustments. There are several new technologies that combat these issues. Dolby Volume, THX Loudness Plus (which is now part of THX Ultra2 Plus and Select2 Plus certification), and Audyssey Dynamic EQ all aim to maintain consistent tonal balance, impact, and surround envelopment at lower volume levels. Dolby Volume and Audyssey Dynamic Volume also have the ability to even out varying volume levels from one source to another—or between TV shows and commercials. Both can also perform advanced dynamic range compression within a particular program. This is kind of like a more sophisticated version of the nighttime listening modes on the AVRs of yesteryear (unfortunately, those older modes don’t often work with modern lossless surround codecs). Audyssey Dynamic Volume and Audyssey Dynamic EQ build on the foundation of Audyssey’s MultEQ/2EQ auto setup and room correction technology. (When you turn on Dynamic Volume, it always activates Dynamic EQ; but when Dynamic Volume is off, you can turn Dynamic EQ on or off. In practice, this means you can use Dynamic EQ without being bound by the overall volume level decisions that Dynamic Volume makes.) All of these technologies significantly improve low-level listening. It’s desirable to have at least one of them.
Nanny Features
Automatic setup and room correction are two newbie-friendly features that tend to travel together. They may be either licensed or proprietary.
Auto Setup
If the thought of setting up an A/V receiver fills you with dread, you should get one that has automatic setup. The AVR will come with a small microphone. When you place it in the seating area (in one or more locations) and activate the auto-setup program, the AVR will spit out test tones and set itself up. It will sense your speaker size, speaker distances, and other parameters. This is especially recommended for beginners.

image: http://cdn.soundandvision.com/images/811avrbg.2.jpg

Room Correction
Most A/V receivers that have auto setup also perform room correction, using an equalizer—a glorified tone control—to correct bloated bass and other sonic deficiencies. Be warned that these EQ circuits don’t always produce better sound. However, it’s easy to run the program and then turn the EQ off if you don’t like it. Some models allow manual EQ adjustments for fine-tuning.
Many manufacturers use their own proprietary setup and room EQ systems, but Audyssey’s versions of these technologies are the most commonly licensed and among the best. Audyssey MultEQ measures the room/speaker response at up to eight listening positions and combines them, with appropriate EQ, in a 
way that’s designed to optimize the system’s performance over a wide listening area. 2EQ does the same for as many as three listening positions. For low-level listening, Audyssey Dynamic EQ uses MultEQ or 2EQ as a foundation, adjusting frequency response and surround balances as the signal rises and falls. Room correction can certainly be helpful, but it’s no substitute for getting your speaker placement and other fundamentals right. Audyssey is licensed for use by Denon, Integra, Marantz, Onkyo, NAD, and others. Another new licensed auto setup and room correction system is Trinnov, which has so far been used in Sherwood AVRs and Audio Design Associates surround processors.

Read more at http://www.soundandvision.com/content/ht-guide-av-receivers#vCilhYjkBHVhU21z.99
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Receivers vs. Separates




Are You Ready for the Heavy Artillery?A friend who went to college in the late 1960s told me that everyone in his dorm fell into one of two absolutely opposing groups: those who blasted the Who’s Tommy and those who were mesmerized by the Beatles’ White Album. Or for the sticklers among you, the album nicknamed the White Album but officially known as The Beatles. I could entertain you with a few more sentences’ worth of metaphor, but you get the idea. You say tomato, I say tomahto.
And so it is with A/V receivers and what are informally called separates, which divide the AVR’s functions into surround processor and multichannel amplifier. Advocates of separates wouldn’t be caught dead using a lowly AVR. For them, separates are inherently the higher-end choice. But more people buy A/V receivers, and judging from reader mail I’ve gotten over the decades, they are usually quite happy with them. For them, the extra challenge of separates is the straw that breaks the camel’s back.
Arguments in favor of separates can briefly be summarized as both quantitative and qualitative. To start with the quantitative argument, if you want to maximize power in your home theater system, you’ll find higher watt-per-channel ratings in multichannel amplifiers than in A/V receivers. That’s the quantitative argument. The qualitative argument is that the delicate circuits of the surround processor and the power-sucking, heat-generating components of the power amp are best kept separate to ensure high performance.
The arguments in favor of AVRs are also quantitative if you start with the assumption that less is more. A/V receivers almost always cost less, especially if you factor in the elimination of cables between surround processor and amp. AVRs take up less rack space and generally consume less power.
And they typically include more of the latest features than surround processors, making them more versatile and alluring in many ways.
It’s easy to pick holes in these arguments. Some A/V receivers have more rated power than some multichannel amps. Some separates are more affordable than top-of-the-line AVRs. But rather than man the barricades, perhaps we’d be better off discussing which type of product is right for you, if you haven’t already decided.
Incidentally, I should declare my biases up front, although longtime readers are already aware of them. I use an A/V receiver in my own system and review AVRs almost exclusively. But I’ll try to do justice to both points of view.
The Case for Separates
In a dedicated home theater, where every aspect of movie presentation is at the highest level of accomplishment—from sound to image to décor to seating—separates rule the roost. When implemented by a knowledgeable installer, who knows how to tune the room as well as the system, separates can dominate a large room with dynamic, powerful surround sound.
With more room in the chassis for bigger components—power transformer, capacitors, heat sinks—the multichannel amp is a beast unleashed, limited only by household electrical circuits. Meanwhile, the surround processor doesn’t have to share a power supply with the amp, and its delicate, low-powered components are safely housed in a separate box. While amplification and surround processor functions can exist in the same product, reconciled by smart circuit design and layout, AVR designers have to live within limitations that are minimized when the amp and surround processor are divorced.
If you don’t want your choice of speaker to be limited to what amplifier mettle can be built into a single AVR chassis, separates are the way to go. No matter how demanding your speakers are, regardless of their rated sensitivity/efficiency and impedance, one or more outboard power amps can accommodate them. For the most power-hungry speakers, you may need to look beyond five- to seven-channel amps to a whole rack of stereo or monoblock amps. But where there’s a will, separates give you a way.
Ensuring that the speakers have a bountiful supply of power will bring audible benefits. The main one will be freedom from clipping during loud passages, which can drive a lesser amplifier into harsh distortion and may even damage the speakers. The system will be better able to navigate dynamic extremes from a whisper to an earthquake.

Read more at http://www.soundandvision.com/content/receivers-vs-separates#kjjVsJK7tMgKrDW9.99
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How To Set Up a Power Amp




So you've taken the leap and opted for separates, and now you're wondering how to set up the power amp properly with you're A/V preamp/processor. Relax, it's not difficult at all.There are two types of connections on any power amp—inputs that accept line-level signals from the preamp/processor and outputs that send the amplified signal to the speakers. Let's start with the inputs.
Amp Inputs
Does your amp have balanced and/or unbalanced inputs? An unbalanced connection uses an RCA jack, and you would use cables with RCA jacks on both ends to connect your pre/pro to the amp.

image: http://cdn.soundandvision.com/images/120706-XLR.jpg

A balanced connection typically uses XLR connectors, which are relatively large round connectors with three pins (male) or three holes (female) in a triangular formation as shown above. This same type of cable used with professional microphones.
An unbalanced audio connection has two conductors—one carries the signal and the other is the shield/ground. With a balanced connection, there are three conductors—one is the shield/ground, while the other two carry the audio signal, and one is out of phase with the other. A balanced connection reduces the risk of induced noise from power cords, radio-frequency interference (RFI), and electromagnetic interference (EMI). By the way, if you are going to the expense of a balanced system, make sure it is balanced throughout the amp and not just at the inputs.
In a nutshell, here is how a balanced connection works. As I mentioned above, the two signal conductors carry the same signal, but one is out of phase with the other. Any induced noise that is picked up along the cable will be at the same phase in both conductors. At the amp's input, a differential amplifier recognizes and rejects any signal that is in phase in both conductors, leaving only the intended audio signal.
Whether your amp uses balanced or unbalanced connections, connect each output channel from the pre/pro to the corresponding input on the amp. If your pre/pro and amp are very close to each other, unbalanced connections are usually fine, since the cable lengths are short, so there's not much chance of induced noise.
On the other hand, if both units offer balanced connections, you might as well use them—if not for noise rejection, then to possibly reduce the chance of ground loops, which can cause an annoying buzzing or humming sound. Ground loops occur when the grounds of two connected devices are connected along two different paths—the audio connection and something else, such as the AC cords—and those two ground connections are not at the same voltage. Using balanced connections can help reduce the risk of ground loops, but only if each device's ground is properly implemented.
If your pre/pro has balanced outputs but your power amp has unbalanced inputs (or vice versa), you might be tempted to connect them using some sort of adaptor. However, this is generally not recommended, because you lose any noise rejection and ground-loop isolation.

image: http://cdn.soundandvision.com/images/120706-XformerIsolation.jpg

If you must connect balanced to unbalanced, you can use a transformer to isolate all unbalanced connections, as shown above. Various manufacturers, such as Rane, make boxes for this purpose. Otherwise, you need to make special cables as described in this excellent article about audio-system connections from Rane.
Speaker Outputs
Because most speaker cables are not shielded, they should be as short as possible to minimize the chance of picking up noise along the way. However, some argue that they should all be the same length so their electrical characteristics—impedance, capacitance, and inductance—are equal, minimizing the chance that these characteristics will affect the sound differently from different speakers.
If you subscribe to this argument, we suggest using cables of equal length for the front left, center, and right and cables of longer but equal length for the surrounds, since the surrounds are likely to be farther away from the amp. On the other hand, this means that some of the cables will be longer than they need to be, and the excess length could lead you to coil them, which can change the overall capacitance and inductance, not to mention increasing the chance of picking up induced noise. In reality, the difference in sound from cables of different lengths is probably negligible, so we believe it's best to use cables of just the right length from the amp to each speaker.
Depending on the type of connectors used for the amp's outputs and the speakers' inputs, the speaker cables can be terminated with banana plugs, spade lugs, or simply bare wire. If the cables have spade lugs, make sure they fit on the amp's binding posts—some spade lugs are too small for some binding posts.
Most importantly, make sure the polarity is the same for all speaker connections. All speaker cables have two conductors that are clearly distinguishable from each other—in many cases, one is marked with a red tag and the other is marked with a black tag at both ends. Similarly, the speaker outputs on most amps and the inputs on most speakers are color-coded red and black.
Make sure that the color-coding of all connections is consistent—red is connected to red and black is connected to black. It really doesn't matter if the colors match, only that they are all the same orientation, though matching the colors is much easier to keep track of. (On the amp pictured at the top of this article, each output is coded with a different color for each positive terminal, but the negative terminals are all black; in such a case, connect the red-coded speaker-cable conductors to the colored terminals and the black-coded conductors to the black terminals. Then, at the other end of the cable, connect the red conductor to the red terminal of each speaker and the black conductor to the black terminal.)
Gain Structuring
Does your amp have individual trim controls—essentially small volume knobs—for each channel? If not, don't worry about it; this is a feature that's losing favor, especially among more mainstream manufacturers.

image: http://cdn.soundandvision.com/images/120706-TrimControls.jpg

If your amp does have trim controls as shown above, one common approach is to crank them all the way up, since you'll be using the volume control on your pre/pro to regulate amplitude. However, depending on the amp, this can introduce a lot of noise into the audio signal.
Here is a quick procedure to ensure the trim controls are set optimally. This process is called gain structuring, which maximizes the gain (amplification) while minimizing noise.
First, set all the trim controls in their lowest or minimum position (usually, that's fully counterclockwise). Make sure the volume on your pre/pro is at its lowest setting, or better yet, just turn it off. In fact, you can do this even before you connect the amp to your pre/pro. However, you will need to connect your speakers to the amp and turn it on.
One by one, turn up the trim controls until you hear hiss in that channel's speaker. At this point, the gain is high enough that you can hear the amp's internal self-noise. Back off the trim until the hiss is gone. After doing this for all channels, the trim controls should be in roughly the same position; if one is very different from the others, there's probably something wrong with that channel.
That's all there is to it. Once you have set up your amp, it's time to kick back and enjoy the sound of your new separates.

Read more at http://www.soundandvision.com/content/how-set-power-amp#0M8R6AeFGgb182Ig.99
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Bi-amping your speakers

Bi-amping speakers
Jumpers connect the two sets of binding posts for regular use (left). For biamping, remove the jumpers (right).
If you've got a seven-channel receiver but you're only using five speakers and a powered subwoofer, you might be able to put those extra two channels to work. Most newer seven-channel receivers let you redirect their rear surround amp channels to send the power to a pair of bi-amp compatible front speakers (these are speakers that have two sets of binding post inputs instead of the usual single pair). You'll enjoy more dynamic, higher quality sound from your bi-amped front speakers — a great feature for anyone who listens to a lot of stereo music.

Connecting your audio components

You've got four main options when making audio connections — HDMI (which carries both audio and video), optical digital, coaxial digital, and analog stereo RCA.
Now, you won't necessarily find all these connection types on every component you own, or on the back of your receiver. (For example, many stereo receivers only offer stereo RCA inputs, since they can't reproduce the surround sound that digital audio connections are often used to deliver.) But in cases where you do have options, choose the highest quality connections you can. Whenever possible, we recommend using a digital connection.

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Speaker connections

Before you connect your speakers, you'll need to determine where you'd like to place them. This will help you find good routes for your speaker wire, and ensure that you've got enough wire to connect all your speakers. Keep in mind, where you position your speakers will impact sound quality a great deal. See our speaker placement video and Julie's home theater speaker placement article for more info on this important subject.
5.1 speaker placement
Take a little extra time to set up your speakers properly, and your ears will thank you.
Choosing speaker wire
The type of speaker wire you use can also make a difference. The right thickness, or gauge, of wire and the type of connectors attached to the ends will help ensure optimum sound quality and easier connections. If you have to use long runs of wire, choosing a heavier gauge will allow more power to reach your speakers for better sound. You may also want to consider using speaker wire terminated with banana plugs or pin connectors for simpler hookups. See our article on speaker wire and connections for more info.
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Home theater receiver setup guide

Choosing the right connections and using the proper settings will help you get all the audio and video performance you paid for.
Here are a few tips that will help make your receiver setup go more smoothly:
  • Have all of the materials you'll be using (cables, tools, owner's manuals for all of your gear, etc.) assembled together before you begin.
  • Keep a flashlight handy so you can clearly see all of the markings on your receiver's input and output jacks.
  • Labeling your audio/video and speaker cables at both ends also helps to keep things more organized when your installation is underway. Crutchfield offers some handy pre-printed labels for this very purpose. 
receiver
Getting your receiver setup properly can have a huge impact on the performance of your system.
There are two basic kinds of cables you'll need to connect your system: audio/video patch cords designed to handle the low-level analog or digital music and picture signals, andspeaker wire to carry the amplified sound from the receiver to your speakers. The first step is to identify the types of connections your receiver and the other components in your system offer, then determine which connections and cables to use to get the best possible performance.
Keep in mind, there's usually more than one way to connect A/V gear to your receiver. If you're connecting a great many components, you may not be able to use the most recommended connection for all of them. We'll provide suggestions to help you choose a different connection type if you run into this situation.
So let's get started!
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Sunday, February 28, 2016

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